Switch Stand Kit
Catalog Number 99R8A
This kit provides all of the parts necessary to make a complete switch stand. Set screws are provided to connect the yoke, lever, and target to the center rod. If you wish to use another method, such as pins, you will need to provide those parts yourself. The kit assumes that you understand what the end result is to be, and that you know how to do basic metal work.
Metal is much easier to remove than to replace. Please proceed carefully and stop if you become uncertain what to do next. If you are having difficulty please ask a more experienced local modeler or contact us.
When assembling the switch stand you must make a decision as to where the stand, and in which direction the lever that connects to the switch will be mounted. You must also decide in which direction the target will face. These will depend on where and how the stand will be mounted relative to your track layout. If you know what is required for each stand you are assembling you can customize them for that location. Otherwise, you may want to leave these parts for field installation.
Before You Begin
You should look over and become familiar with the parts provided and read the instructions completely through before starting. Most of the assembly work will involve minor clean up of the castings that can be done with a file or sander followed by the drilling and in some cases, threading of a number of holes. You will need a power drill with a long 3/8" diameter bit to drill the center hole and a #24 drill and 10-24 tap with tap wrench to thread the set screw holes. You will also need a 3/16" drill and wrenches for the bolt that holds the handle..
- You should determine the overall length of the center rod that will be required. This depends on the mounting height of the target and on the position of the lever. Hint: It is common for targets to be mounted at different heights, for example between main lines and yards. This is a good time to develop standards for your railroad. If you follow these standards a more uniform design will result.
- Cut the 3/8" diameter rod furnished to the length required for the center rod and deburr the ends. Check the rod to make sure it is straight by rolling it on a flat surface. Straighten if necessary.
- Use the center rod to check the straightness of the frame. Castings may distort while being made. You must drill a 3/8" hole through the upper and lower parts of the frame in a straight line matching the center rod. This hole ideally will be through the center of the frame but it may not, in some cases, if the frame is slightly off. It is important that the two parts of the hole be straight and in alignment, it is not important that the holes be centered. After laying out the desired location for the holes you should drill the hole in the upper part using a either a standard length or long length drill. It is much easier to next drill the lower part of the frame if you have a long length drill (12 inches). With a long drill use the upper hole as a guide and drill the lower hole (you may have to file a flat area on the casting to get the drill to start correctly). If you do not have a long drill, use the center rod to establish the desired location and direction and drill from the bottom upwards. Errors in drilling can be corrected by drilling oversize and inserting thin walled tubing (as sold in hobby shops).
- The top plate fits over the top of the frame and is held in place by the center rod, yoke (immediately above the top plate), and shaft collar (on the center rod at the top of the opening in the frame). It may be slightly loose but will operate correctly. You may also add screws or bolts to attach it if you wish. Center the top plate on the frame and clamp it into place (the two parallel ribs are on the bottom side). If you have a long 3/8" drill, drill a hole through its center drilling from the bottom of the frame. If you have only a short 3/8" drill, insert the drill by hand through the upper part of the hole in the frame and twist it to make a center mark, then remove the top plate and drill it.
- The yoke, target, and lever must each have a 3/8" hole drilled in them for the center rod. They must also be attached to the rod so that they turn with the rod. This attachment is with a set screw in a #24 drilled and 10-24 tapped hole.
- Assemble the stand using the drawing as a reference but omit the target and lever, and leave the yoke loose at this time. Fit the latch into the slot in the yoke (remove metal as required for a slip fit). Turn the yoke and try the latch in each of the slots in the top plate (again remove metal as required). Your goal is to find one position of the latch in the yoke that provides a secure position in each of the slots. When this has been determined you must drill a 3/16" hole through both and attach the latch to the yoke using the furnished bolt and nut.
- Do the final installation of the lever and target to the stand. Unless you are sure which way they must face it is better to leave final tightening for later when the stand is installed. Check for smooth operation. Painting is optional but as a minimum you may want to paint the front face of the target red.
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